Discovering the Old Town Edinburgh: A City Built on an Ancient Volcano

overlooking the old town of edinburgh with all the multi storey sandstone buildings and the hill known as Arthurs seat in the background covered in yellow heather.

 About Old Town Edinburgh

The beautiful historic Old Town Edinburgh rises dramatically along the ridge of an ancient, long-dormant volcano known as Castle Rock. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995, this remarkable area has been continuously settled since the 7th century AD, making it one of Scotland’s most atmospheric and storied districts.

The unique volcanic rock formation is key to how Old Town Edinburgh developed over the centuries. The steep spine of the rock shaped the city’s distinctive “stacked” layout, giving rise to what many consider the world’s first multistorey buildings—towering medieval tenements that once housed thousands of residents within the narrow, bustling streets.

A corner of a sandstone building on cowgate street in the old town with a artwork of a black and white dairy cow with the front of the cow on one side and the back on the other side.

Dominating the skyline is the iconic Edinburgh Castle, perched at the summit of Castle Rock. Its origins date as far back as the 10th century, and it remains one of the most striking symbols of the city.

From its ancient volcanic foundations to its soaring stone architecture, Old Town Edinburgh is a place where geology, history, and culture blend into one unforgettable experience.

Best things to do in Edinburgh old town

a section of the royal mile in the old town, with a beautiful sandstone building with a clock tower in the middle

1. The Royal Mile: The Historic Heart of Old Town Edinburgh

The Royal Mile is the vibrant one-mile stretch that forms the historic backbone of Old Town Edinburgh. Often described as the “spine” of the ancient volcanic ridge, this famous street runs downhill from Edinburgh Castle all the way to the Palace of Holyrood house.

Packed with history, culture, and countless hidden closes, the Royal Mile is home to many of the top things to see and do in Old Town Edinburgh. From centuries-old architecture to lively shops, museums, street performers, and atmospheric alleyways, there’s always something waiting to be discovered.

One of the best ways to truly understand the stories behind this legendary street is to join a guided walking tour.

A photo of the royal mile with a archway in the middle of a brown sandstone building that has a tower above it and the tolbooth tavern to the left side of the tower


I highly recommended the Mercat Tours- Secrets of the Royal Mile
This tour dives deep into the history, myths, and characters that shaped the Royal Mile, making it perfect for first-time visitors wanting a richer experience.

For the outlander and Harry Potter fans, I highly recommend doing one of those tours too. Check them out here:

Outlander

Harry Potter

the oldest building in Ediburgh, St Margrats chapel in Edinburgh castle, is a small stone chapel with a small green rock garden around the base

2. Edinburgh Castle: The Crown Jewel of Old Town Edinburgh

The most iconic landmark in the city, Edinburgh Castle rises majestically above Old Town Edinburgh, dominating the skyline from its dramatic perch atop Castle Rock. Its earliest foundations date back to the 10th century, and over the centuries this mighty fortress has played a central role in shaping Scotland’s turbulent history.

A visit to Edinburgh Castle is a must for anyone exploring Old Town Edinburgh. You can easily spend half a day discovering its ancient courtyards, panoramic viewpoints, and fascinating museums. As one of the most popular attractions in Edinburgh, it’s essential to pre-book your tickets to avoid long queues—especially in peak season.

looking at Edinburgh castle from a side view, with the walls going down the sides of the steep outcrop the castle stands on.

Inside the castle walls, you’ll find an impressive collection of historic sites and exhibits, including:

 The National war museum

 Scottish national war memorial

 One o’clock gun

Scottish crown jewels

St Margaret’s chapel

Royal palace

Military prison

the outside of the Scotch Whiskey experience building decorated for christmas, with red lights illuminating it and a christmas tree in the background

3. The Scotch Whisky Experience: A Taste of Scotland in Old Town Edinburgh

No visit to Old Town Edinburgh is complete without discovering Scotland’s most iconic drink—Scotch whisky. The Scotch Whisky Experience, located right on the Royal Mile, is the perfect place to dive into the history, craft, and flavour of this world-famous spirit.

Here, you’ll learn how whisky is made, uncover the traditions behind its production, and explore what makes Scotch so uniquely Scottish. The experience also introduces you to the country’s major whisky regions—Speyside, the Highlands, the Lowlands, Islay, and Campbeltown—each offering its own distinctive character.

rows of floor length glass cabinets full of different whiskey bottles from around scotland

Of course, no visit would be complete without a tasting. You’ll have the chance to sample a variety of whiskies and discover your personal favourite style and get to keep your free Whisky glass.

A warm, welcoming, and educational stop, the Scotch Whisky Experience is a must-do for anyone exploring Old Town Edinburgh.

(Side note: I actually went to the Scotch Whisky experience- NOT liking Whiskey and came out the other end not only liking Whiskey but also which types I liked! So even if you don’t like it – I highly recommend you still try it- because you never know!!)

the front of st giles cathedral off the royal mile in the old town

4. St Giles Cathedral: The Crown Jewel of the Royal Mile

Founded in the 12th century, the cathedral has witnessed over 900 years of Scottish history. The building is instantly recognisable thanks to its magnificent crown-shaped spire, a symbol of the city and an architectural masterpiece from the 15th century.

Inside, the cathedral is filled with soaring stone pillars, stained glass windows, and intricate carvings that showcase centuries of craftsmanship.

 St Giles’ Cathedral has long been a centre of political and religious life in Edinburgh.

It played a key role during the Scottish Reformation and is closely associated with John Knox, the influential Protestant reformer whose statue stands inside. You can also find his gravestone outside the cathedral.

the side of st giles cathedral showing all the stainglassed windows and a statue of a man riding a horse in the foreground

Located just outside St Giles’ Cathedral is Parliament Square, home to the historic Mercat Cross. This area was once Edinburgh’s main marketplace and also served as the site for town meetings, making it a central hub of civic and commercial life in the Old Town.

You’ll also find the famous Heart of Midlothian mosaic set into the cobblestones near the cathedral entrance. Once the site of the Old Tolbooth prison.

inside one of the closes, turned into a small garden with lots of green potted plants and a lot of benches to sit on

5. Explore the Wynds and closes: Stepping back in time

A favourite to explore in the Old town, there are many wynds and Closes and are often described as “veins” running off  the “Spine” –  the Royal mile. These twisting lanes date back centuries and were once the main routes that connected homes, workshops, marketplaces, and gathering spots in the crowded Old Town.

A close is typically a narrow alley or corridor leading to a courtyard or former tenement area, often named after an important resident or the trade that once operated there.  

A wynd is slightly wider and functioned as a small street, though still compact by modern standards.

inside another close with a stone staircase, famous from the tv series outlander

Walking through these alleys is like stepping back in time. Many retain their original stone steps, steep inclines, and dramatic views framed between towering medieval buildings. They are also filled with stories—of merchants, nobles, plague victims, fire survivors, and everyday residents who lived cheek-by-jowl in what was once one of Europe’s most densely populated cities.

a sign hanging over a entrance to one of the closes that says old fishmarket close. below the sign there is a variety of different fishes made of metal

Top Wynds and Closes to check out:

  • Advocates Close
  • Bakehouse Close
  • Old Fish market Close
  • Tweedale Close
  • St Marys Wynd
  • Leith Wynd
  • Mary Kings Close
  • Fleshmarket close
  • Lady stairs Close
  • Brodie’s Close

6. Mary King’s Close: Edinburgh’s Hidden Underground Street

Hidden beneath the  Royal Mile, Mary King’s Close is one of the most intriguing, atmospheric and a little creepy- experiences in Old Town Edinburgh.

This preserved underground warren of streets and homes dates back to the 17th century and offers a rare glimpse into how Edinburgh’s residents once lived—crowded, lively, and often harshly. 

As you wander through dim passageways and original stone rooms, expert guides share gripping stories of merchants, families, and plague victims who called this close home before it was sealed off and built over in the 18th century.

inside greyfriars kirkyard with large gravestones with a green lawn inbetween them and full of trees

7.  Greyfriars Kirkyard: Edinburgh’s Most  Legendary Cemetery

 Dating back to the 16th century, this ancient graveyard is packed with elaborate tombstones, mausoleums, and hauntingly beautiful monuments that tell the story of Edinburgh’s turbulent past. Many of the city’s most notorious historical figures are buried here, and the cemetery is often associated with ghost stories.

With its winding paths, ancient gravestones, and hidden stories, Greyfriars Kirkyard is a must-visit for anyone exploring Old Town Edinburgh.

The Kirkyard is also a must for any Harry Potter fan, with inspiration for many names in the series coming from the local residents here. Many people enjoy spending some time here finding the names linked to Harry Potter such as:

  • Thomas Riddle – Often cited as the inspiration for Tom Riddle, the birth name of Lord Voldemort. The grave is one of the most visited in the kirkyard.
  • William McGonagall – A notoriously bad Victorian poet whose surname is shared with Professor Minerva McGonagall, Hogwarts’ beloved Transfiguration teacher.
  • Elizabeth Moodie – Thought to echo the name Mad-Eye Moody, the eccentric and paranoid Auror.
  • Robert Potter – A gravestone credited with Harry’s last name.
  • Cruickshank – Believed to mirror the name Crookshanks, Hermione’s famously clever cat.
  • Scrymgeour – Shares a name with Rufus Scrimgeour, the Minister for Magic.
a picture of the statue of greyfriars bobby- the little dog

Don’t forget to  check out Greyfriars bobby outside the Kirkyard, the statue of a Skye Terrier, which guarded his owner’s grave for 14 years after he passed.

inside the Princes street gardens with a footpath in the middle and lots of orange, pink and purple flowers and lots of green fro mthe grass and trees. in the background you can see the sandstone buildings of old town

8. Princes street Gardens: A Green Escape

The Princes street garden, like many places in Scotland it has a great tale. Once upon a time, centuries ago it was a lake, by the name of Nor Loch. Located just below the old town the Loch gave a natural defense to the Castle but also as the city’s rubbish dump.

By the 18th century however, the Old Town had become overcrowded and polluted, and so the city planner designed a New town. The  New town would be a beautiful Georgian town with wide streets and sandstone townhouses where the wealthy townspeople could move to, and it was to be located on the other side of the Loch Nor. 

the Scott monument building with lots of trees in the foreground and trees wit red flower on each side of the photo

But what was to be done about the stinking, foul Loch Nor? Well they decide that the Loch must go! So they filled it in with earth and stone from the construction of the New town and transformed it into the beautiful gardens that are there today.

A beautiful greenspace in the heart of the city home to landmarks such as the iconic Scott Monument, the ornate Ross Fountain, and several historic memorials.

It also hosts seasonal events, concerts, and festivals, making it a lively spot for both locals and visitors exploring Old Town Edinburgh.

Victoria street, curving round a corner, showing the colourful buildings of white and red, pinkand gray, and blue and white. above this you can see more of hte brown sandstone building on the street above, creating the layered effect of the old town

9. Victoria Street: One of the Most Charming Corners of Old Town Edinburgh

One of the most well known streets in the Old Town after the Royal mile, Victoria street is a beautiful pebbled curving street from the George IV bridge off the Royal Mile.

This colourful photogenic street was originally used as a way to get between the Royal Mile and the lower level streets beneath it, leading down towards the Grassmarket. Full of boutique shops and cafes, It is also one of the streets used as inspiration for Diagon alley in Harry Potter.

the elegant sandstone building of Holyrood palace with manicured lawns and trees. in the background is some buildings on carlton hill

10. Holyrood Palace: Scotland’s Royal Heart

Located at the opposite end of the Royal mile to Edinburgh Castle is Holyrood Palace and the official residence to the British Monarch when in Scotland. 

Built by King James IV in the 16th century, the palace has been a centre of royal and political life for centuries and the entwining of Royal Scottish and English history.

a close up of holyrood palce with the sandstone building with bright pink flowers in front

The highlights include the royal apartments of the most famous resident-  Mary Queen of Scots, the Royal throne room and stunning gardens with views of Arthurs seat and 12th century Abbey ruins within the grounds.

11. Ghost tour: Discover the Dark Side of Old Town Edinburgh

From witch hunts, torture and executions to graveyards, stories of the black death and underground vaults, there is no other city like the Old town in Edinburgh for a ghost tour!

Free ghost tour

Run by city explorers Edinburgh this free tour starts after dark daily. Book Here

City of the Dead tours

From £19 for adults the city of dead tours offers multiple types of ghost tours, whether your more interested in graveyards or vaults, you can pick one that tickles your fancy! You can purchase tickets Here

Mercat Tours

Mercat tours have been running in Edinburgh since the late 1980’s and are definitely one of my favorite tour companies, having done many of their tours. They have many ghost tours to choose from including a child friendly one, or if child free a Whiskey instead!You can check out the choices Here

a photo of the sign saying Museum of Edinburgh in red

12. Edinburgh Museum: Where the City’s Story Comes Alive

Located in the cant miss- bright red and yellow Huntly house, this small museum, focuses on the history of Edinburgh, and focuses on the development of the city over the centuries and the stories of those who lived through it.

It is also a free museum which is always great!

14. Camera Obscura: The World of Illusions

A Victorian age attraction from the 1830’s this is a great activity for a rainy day!  Inside, you’ll find five floors packed with interactive exhibits, puzzles, visual illusions, mirror mazes, and light tricks that are great for both adults and kids.

It has plenty to keep you busy with shrinking rooms and vortex tunnels to holograms and mind-bending installations.

the main hall of inside the museum of scotland with victoria style features with long arched windows and looking up through two floors with balconies all the way around and a glass roof letting in sunlight

15. National Museum of Scotland: Exploring Scotland’s Story

With a stunning Victorian style main hall, this free museum explores Scotland’s history through the ages, along with world culture, art and natural history.

It’s the kind of museum you can spend an hour in or lose an entire day exploring, thanks to its enormous and beautifully curated collection.

a view of old town edinburgh in the background of all the muli- storey sandstone buildings, in the foreground, one of the art style buildings on carlton hill


16. Enjoy the views of Old town: Top Viewpoints Around the City

Exploring the Old town is fantastic, but if you want some beautiful pictures and to see why they call it the first skyscraper city in the world, getting a further out or higher perspective is always great too.

Some great places to see the old town from are places like:

  •  Princes street in the new town
  • The top of the Scott monument
  • The top of Carlton hill in the New town
  • Crossing the North Bridge from the New Town 
  • The Vennel for great view of the castle
  • Climb Arthurs seat for a beautiful view over the old town
A photo of the outside of the blue building- the worlds end pub on a corner street

Where to Eat in Old town Edinburgh


There are some great places to eat in the old town from amazing coffee to amazing history! Some great places include:

  • The Pipers Rest pub- Located on the Royal mile, this pub has some great Scottish favourites such as Haggis and mash with Whiskey gravy. The Scottish also love their Steak pies and this one is delicious!
  • The Worlds end Pub- Famous for the name and their location- the Worlds end which was once where the city gate was in the 16th century and if they couldn’t afford to pay to go through the gate, this was where their world ended. The pub is also built into part of the Flooden wall which is part of the old city wall. They are famous for the best fish and chips in Edinburgh!  
  • The Wee Pub- The smallest pub in Edinburgh it only fits about 20 people inside! 
  • The Haggis box- a great place to try some Haggis and tatties, they even have vegetarian haggis!
  • The Milkman- This cafe on Cockburn street has become a bit of an instagram famous hotspot, it does have some great coffee and pastries available, but there could be a bit of a line!
  • Room and Rumours coffee- My favourite cafe in Edinburgh, and have been going to since i discovered it on my first trip! It’s a little bit tucked away on Market street, but does excellent coffee (My Melbourne coffee snob tastebuds absolutely approve!). They also rotate through different beans and roasters from different places too. They also have freshly made donuts that change flavours every day which are delicious! 
  • Deacon’s House cafe – Tucked away in Brodies Close is a great place for cakes and pastries and  i highly recommend stopping in for a afternoon cream tea!
Haggis and mashed potatoes ans parsnips on a plate with whiskey gravy in a small bowl beside it

Where to Stay

Affordable

The Baxter Hostel

Located in a fantastic spot in the new town, it is just off Princes street, very close to Waverly Station, I have stayed here about 3 times and it is always my go- to hostel in Edinburgh.


Mid range

The Radisson Blu

Located in the Old town, just steps from the royal mile, located close to many attractions in the old town. The hotel also has a spa attached.

Luxury

The Balmoral Hotel

This Luxury hotel is one of the most famous hotels in Edinburgh, known for its celebrity clientele, and known for where J.K. Rowling wrote a large part of the final Harry potter book in the hotel.

With beautiful views of the old town, it is a stones throw away from waverly station and the old town.

Frequently asked Questions


Do you need a car in Old town Edinburgh?

You absolutely don’t need a car in Old Town Edinburgh. The area is incredibly walkable, and driving here is often more of a hassle than a help. With its narrow streets, historic layout, and limited parking, exploring on foot is by far the easiest—and most enjoyable—way to experience the Old Town.

Old Town Edinburgh is also conveniently close to the city’s main bus, train, and tram connections, making it simple to reach other neighbourhoods or travel further afield without a car.

Do keep in mind that the Old Town is known for its steep hills and many staircases, so comfortable shoes are essential. But the charm you’ll discover around every corner makes the climb well worth it.

Best ways to get to Edinburgh?

Airport- the fastest way from Edinburgh airport is catching the 100 Airlink bus that runs every 10 minutes and  goes to Princes street in the new town Edinburgh. It costs £5.50 one way.

 If you are coming from another place in the UK, such as London the best way is by train. With multiple trains, such as LNER, Lumo and avanti trains leaving daily from Kings Cross and Euston stations and arriving in the centre of Edinburgh at waverley station there are plenty of options to choose from.

If you can try and prebook your ticket as they can become a lot more expensive if you purchase on the day you travel.

Bus- the cheapest option, catching the bus where you can get very cheap fares especially if you book in advance. There are 3 bus options such as mega bus, flix bus or national express leaving from Victoria bus station in London. And you can also book this for an overnight trip if you want.

How Long Do You Need to Explore Old Town Edinburgh?

There is so much to see and experience in the old town that i would recommend at least 3 days to see everything in the Old town Edinburgh.

A close up view of Edinburgh castle all lit up for the Edinburgh tattoo, covered with projections of the union jack ans the royal navy

What’s the Best time of year to go to Edinburgh?

Edinburgh is a city that changes dramatically with the seasons, making every time of year unique.

Spring (March–May): Spring is a beautiful time to visit, as the city comes alive with blooming gardens and milder weather. Crowds are smaller than in summer, making it perfect for exploring the historic streets of the Old Town. The Beltane Fire Festival, held on Calton Hill at the end of April, is a must-see for its spectacular celebrations of fire, music, and ancient traditions.

Summer (June–August): Summer is peak tourist season and for good reason. The weather is warmer, the days are long, and the Edinburgh Fringe Festival dominates August with thousands of performances across theatre, comedy, music, and more. At the same time, the Edinburgh Military Tattoo transforms the Castle Esplanade into a spectacular show of music, ceremony, and precision drills. Expect large crowds, so booking accommodation and tickets well in advance is essential.

Autumn (September–November): Autumn brings cooler temperatures and beautiful autumnal colors across the city’s parks and closes. This quieter season is ideal for strolling through Old Town Edinburgh and visiting historic attractions without the summer crowds. Cultural events continue, and it’s a great time to enjoy cozy pubs and whisky tastings.

Winter (December–February): Winter in Edinburgh is magical. The Christmas markets and festive lights create a storybook atmosphere in the Old Town, and Hogmanay—the Scottish New Year celebration—is one of the world’s biggest and most spectacular. Though temperatures can be chilly, the festive energy and fewer tourists in some areas make winter a charming time to explore.

the building of old town on Cockburn strret with yellow snow flake lights hung across the street for christmas

What’s the difference between the old town and new town?

The Old Town of Edinburgh is the city’s original settlement, full of narrow, winding streets, historic closes, and medieval architecture.

By the 18th century, however, the Old Town had become overcrowded, and the city needed more space. To address this, city planners filled in what was once a lake—now Princes Street Gardens—and created the beautiful Georgian style New Town. Designed with wide streets to accommodate carriages and lined with beautiful townhouses, the New Town offered a striking contrast to the dense, vertical streets of the Old Town.